Beautiful in its serenity, usually quite eerie, mysterious, occasionally even a little foreboding, Dominica’s highest crater lake is certainly enigmatic. And yesterday was no exception. Over the years I have known Dominica and have visited Boeri I have heard tales of a fearsome lake monster, a bottomless abyss, and when I swim out across its still waters I am never completely at ease. Perhaps it is its depth (no-one does actually know for sure how deep it goes), perhaps it is the apparent dearth of life within it (the volcanic boulders that surround its margins and gradually disappear beneath the surface have no weed, seemingly no growth of any kind), maybe it is the altitude or the spine-chilling temperature of the water – maybe it is all in the mind. In breathtaking montane and elfin surroundings, overshadowed by the peaks of Micotrin and Trois Pitons, Boeri’s unfathomable mystique never fails to draw me and I love to walk there.
Not one of Dominica’s most popular hiking destinations, Boeri is commonly a lonely stroll where you are accompanied by the occasional hummingbird, the song of the mountain whistler, and the intermittent rustling of creatures unseen in the dense foliage along the trail. A short walk (the sign says 45 minutes but it usually takes a little less), the narrow path climbs steeply up a ridge where superb views of the Freshwater Lake and the Rosalie River valley are on offer, before plunging downwards again to the head of the Clark River. This is always a tricky stretch over slippery rocks that forever threaten to catch you unawares. I take it at a snail’s pace every time. A little overgrown and debris strewn from rains, the route is more hazardous than usual right now.
I have never been to Boeri at this time of year and was amazed to see the lake completely full, all the way up to the tree line and not a boulder in sight. Spilling over into the margins around, the final approaches were submerged and required a short wade. Sadly, and presumably destroyed by adverse weather, the pretty wooden shelter is no longer standing and you are currently greeted by a pile of rotting timber and a somewhat shaky platform (so watch it). The lake was beautiful yesterday, looking altogether a different place with its high water line, yet retaining that unmistakable air of spookiness nevertheless. Happily, no monsters to report.
Went to Boeri 2 days ago and was pleased that a trail crew had recently been through, clearing undergrowth, digging rain gutters and replacing loose or missing wooden steps. The trail was in excellent condition. The recent lack of rain, however, has clearly had an effect on the water level. We found the water lower than we had ever seen it in February (our fourth annual trip here). I’m guessing here, but I think the level must be 15 feet below the peak reported by Paul in his November hike here. Water still refreshing and lake monsters remained sleeping in the depths.