Dominica’s Kalinago live in a communally owned mountain and coastal area on the east of the island known as the Carib Territory (perhaps soon to be known as the ‘Kalinago Territory’). They are descendents of Amerindians who ventured up the Lesser Antilles island chain from the Amazon River Delta long before Columbus chanced upon the region in the 15th century. These indigenous people became known by Europeans as Island Caribs, or simply Caribs. In Dominica they call themselves Kalinago.
Despite displacing tribal peoples who arrived before them, the Kalinago represent the last vestiges of pre-Columbian life in the Lesser Antilles and, in Dominica, they still cling to a piece of land they call home. In the modern world, an important source of income to the Kalinago comes from tourism. Traditional larouma basketware is sold from roadside stalls and craft shops throughout the island and the Kalinago Barana Auté, a model village constructed as both a tourist site and memorial to how Dominica’s indigenous people used to live, is very popular with visitors.
Former Kalinago Chief, Irvince Auguiste, decided to take the concept of the Kalinago Barana Auté one step further. Rather than a ‘model village’ dedicated to the past, his vision was to create a living village dedicated very much to the present. Located along the Pagua River, Touna Auté is an original concept and a fascinating experience. From the moment you arrive, it strikes you that this is a ‘tour’ with a difference. Touna Auté is a real village, with real people living in it, who willingly open up their homes and share their lives with visitors. In fact, this is a prerequisite of living here.
Irvince’s warm welcome is followed by a stroll around the village, to the homes of basket weavers, gardeners, fruit juice makers, and cassava bread bakers. Kids run around, meat is smoked in outside kitchens. Visitors are encouraged to take their time, stop and chat, learn something new, relax and feel at home in the village. It is even possible to stay overnight, share a meal and exchange stories with a Kalinago family. Touna Auté is exprimental and still evolving. With hard work, luck, and the support of locals and visitors, it should become a living project that successfully links past with present, and introduces both Dominicans and travellers to the every day existence of the island’s indigenous people.
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